Pelli

The muhurtam is at a quarter to nine in the evening, when the lamps are already lit, and the rites run well past midnight. At the auspicious minute, under the mandapam, cumin and jaggery (jeelakarra bellam) are pressed onto each other’s heads: the bitter held together with the sweet.

Three knots at the throat, with the drums deliberately deafening. Then the talambralu: rice turned gold with turmeric, thrown by the fistful until both of them and half the front row are laughing. Seven steps around the fire, one vow at each, and at the seventh they are married.

Dinner follows. Come early enough to find your people and claim a seat where you can actually see.